Leuistic Leopard Gecko

Information

The Leucistic leopard gecko may be the easiest, most docile gecko to keep. They require a small cage, will rarely, if ever bite, and are inexpensive. Ages 8 and up can keep them without a problem. This is a great beginner reptile.

Feeding

Crickets make a great staple for these voracious eaters. They will eat anything that moves and love silkworms and super worms. Super worms should only be offered to adults because of their size. Mealworms are also great for babies. Baby geckos can have 3/8-inch crickets, juveniles, and crickets for adults. Feed juveniles every day and adults every couple of days. Be sure to dust all the food items with 100% calcium.

When feeding leopard geckos put 5 to 10 crickets in the tank at a time or as much as they can eat within 10-20 minutes for them to hunt. Before you feed them, check the tank to make sure at least most of the crickets have been eaten from the last feeding.

Enclosure

Leopard geckos take up very little space compared to most reptiles. A juvenile can live happily in a 10-gallon tank. Adults need a bare minimum of 10 gallons, and I recommend housing one per 20-gallon tank. You should have at least three hide boxes in the tank. A hide box on each end of the tank, and one in the middle.

Temperature

They need fairly high temperatures. Their basking spot should be around 90F, and under tank heaters (UTH) work best. Leopard geckos absorb heat through their bellies more than from their back. Using a UTH will also let your gecko become heated without leaving a hide. Heat lamps work fine as well, but you will have to replace bulbs frequently.

Heat lamps should be used if you have paper towels because leopard geckos will get burned from a UTH. When using a UTH, make sure that you have at least 10 layers of paper towels or enough loose substrate.